60 Min
GF
NF
Patra Fish
Fish wrapped in banana or other leaves and steamed is common through India’s fish-eating communities. Bengalis wrap fish in a mustard marinade, and Parsi cooks marinate fish in an aromatic green chutney before steaming it in banana leaves. However, the fish can also be wrapped in edible leaves like mustard leaves, hoja santa, or fig leaves. When Islam was established in Persia (erstwhile Iran), Zoroastrian fire temples were destroyed and its followers faced religious persecution and were forced to leave their homeland. India, known for its religious tolerance and inclusivity, welcomed the refugees. A large contingent of Parsis were granted permission to land in Gujarat, thus founding the Parsi (Gujarati term for Persian) community in India. They assimilated into Indian culture and flourished under British colonial rule by showing an uncommon aptitude for Western education and sensibilities. They became the local titans of trade and commerce and used their tremendous influence to endow schools, colleges, and hospitals for the poor.
Today, Mumbai is home to the largest Parsi population in the world. I spent most summers at the Mumbai home of a Parsi friend, Jena, where I experienced firsthand the interesting cuisine that had developed from combining Indian spices, herbs, and pulses with Persian luxuries like nuts and dried fruits. I would know we were having patra fish for dinner when the herby aroma of the green chutney and sounds of ritual grinding on the stone would waft up the stairway. Sometimes it was local kingfish, other times it was carp or mackerel. Any firm seasonal fish like snapper or halibut will do well, and while the recipe calls for either steaks or fillets, patra fish is traditionally made with thick fish steaks. If you are unable to locate banana leaf, use only parchment paper instead.
Fish wrapped in banana or other leaves and steamed is common through India’s fish-eating communities. Bengalis wrap fish in a mustard marinade, and Parsi cooks marinate fish in an aromatic green chutney before steaming it in banana leaves. However, the fish can also be wrapped in edible leaves like mustard leaves, hoja santa, or fig leaves. When Islam was established in Persia (erstwhile Iran), Zoroastrian fire temples were destroyed and its followers faced religious persecution and were forced to leave their homeland. India, known for its religious tolerance and inclusivity, welcomed the refugees. A large contingent of Parsis were granted permission to land in Gujarat, thus founding the Parsi (Gujarati term for Persian) community in India. They assimilated into Indian culture and flourished under British colonial rule by showing an uncommon aptitude for Western education and sensibilities. They became the local titans of trade and commerce and used their tremendous influence to endow schools, colleges, and hospitals for the poor.
Today, Mumbai is home to the largest Parsi population in the world. I spent most summers at the Mumbai home of a Parsi friend, Jena, where I experienced firsthand the interesting cuisine that had developed from combining Indian spices, herbs, and pulses with Persian luxuries like nuts and dried fruits. I would know we were having patra fish for dinner when the herby aroma of the green chutney and sounds of ritual grinding on the stone would waft up the stairway. Sometimes it was local kingfish, other times it was carp or mackerel. Any firm seasonal fish like snapper or halibut will do well, and while the recipe calls for either steaks or fillets, patra fish is traditionally made with thick fish steaks. If you are unable to locate banana leaf, use only parchment paper instead.
1 hour
6
To make the fish:
To make the green masala:
To make the fish:
To make the green masala:
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A handmade spice box containing chai masala, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, whole black peppercorns, whole green cardamom pods with a few black cardamom pods, garam masala, mace pods and nutmeg.
A handmade spice box containing red chile, turmeric, black pepper, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, amchur and garam masala.
An aromatic blend of warm spices usually added at the end of cooking stews or curries.
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FISH FOR DINNER? Don't mind if I do.
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