May 07, 2019
Patra, a delicious quintessential snack from the Gujarat province of India, is a steamed and pan-roasted savory pinwheel made with taro leaves (aka elephant ears, colcasia leaves) rolled with a chickpea masala. Making patra transports me to my childhood in India and after-school rendezvous with friends over snacks and lassi. Gujarat is well known for its multitude of savory snacks usually made with vegetables, lentils and nuts — almost always salty, sweet and spicy at the same time. Locals think nothing of picking up hot samosas or pakoras from street vendors and stopping into friends’ houses unannounced for quick chats over cups of chai. In some cases, business deals and marriage proposals are done this way. The heart-shaped taro leaves provide an excellent source of chlorophyll and are a rich source of vitamin C. You can find these leaves growing wild in Houston. If not, find them at most Indian grocers along Hillcroft and U.S. 59. Patra is best eaten warm with chai or lassi in the afternoon, or as a light lunch with a salad.
makes ~4 - 6 servings
8-10 taro leaves (aka colcasia leaves, or elephant ears), about 7-12 inches apiece
2½ cups chickpea flour
3 tablespoons unpeeled grated ginger
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon ajwain
2 teaspoons crumbled fenugreek leaves
2 teaspoons jaggery (or 1 tablespoon sugar)
1 teaspoon chili powder
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
6-7 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1½ cups grated carrot, plus more for garnish
Pinch baking soda
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch asafoetida
A few chopped kari leaves
1 sliced serrano
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
Cilantro, for garnish
Grated coconut, for garnish
½ lemon or lime
Remove and discard the inner-center core from the taro leaves and the stem if it appears to be thick.
In a large bowl, using a spatula, mix the chickpea flour, grated ginger, turmeric, ajwain, fenugreek leaves, jaggery or sugar, chili powder, salt, sesame seeds, 4 tablespoons olive oil and grated carrots. This chickpea masala mixture will be crumbly. Add 2-3 tablespoons of warm water and baking soda and mix just until the paste is smooth. It should be thick enough to spread onto the leaves.
Spread the leaves flat onto a clean surface, making sure there are no gaps between them. Spread with the chickpea paste about ¼-inch thick. Tightly roll the leaves up into log. Repeat the process with the remaining leaves.
Lay the patra rolls onto a steam basket and steam for 20 minutes on low heat. Remove from steam and let them rest until they are no longer hot to the touch. At this point, the patra rolls can be refrigerated and/or frozen.
When ready to serve, slice the patra diagonally into ½-inch slices. In a large frying pan, heat 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil and when just shy of smoking, add the asafoetida, kari leaves, serrano and mustard seeds. Add the sliced patra and sear on both sides for 2-3 minutes or until they are slightly golden. Serve with a sprinkling of chopped cilantro, grated carrot, grated coconut and fresh lime or lemon wedges to squeeze on top.
Asafetida is a gum from the tap root of a tree native to India and parts of the Middle East. It is a strong spice with a pervasive aroma of onions and garlic (store it in an airtight container).
Use collards or kale leaves if you cannot find colcasia.
Kari (or curry) leaves are edible leaves reminiscent of pine and lemon aromas. Kaffir lime leaves can work as a substitute; however, they are not essential to the recipe.
Not to be mistaken for marsala, a sweet Italian wine, masala is simply a generic term for a blend of spices and seasoning.
Jaggery is a minimally processed, highly flavorful date or palm sugar, usually sold in hard brown blocks.
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September 20, 2023
Originating in ancient Egypt and brought to India by the Persians, naan is one the most popular flatbreads in India. For hundreds of years, it was the part of the decadent cuisine of royal households that did not extend to their subjects. Even today, naan is not commonly found in homes as they are made in large tandoors; barrel shaped wood or charcoal fired clay ovens heated to over 600 degrees F. Restaurants are where most folks go to get naans as home ovens are not common in India. Here in the west, if you have a pizza stone or a hot surface to put bread on, you can make naans at home. Taking a page out of my own book, I adapted the royal naan recipe from Masala to give this bread a thick fluffier consistency yet kept the spirit of a naan intact. I added plums, onions, and seasonings on top. Serve it with yogurt tossed with cumin and black pepper, bean spreads, flavored oils, or ghee as a starter or to accompany a hearty stew.
September 18, 2023
This summer, I decided to start a small vegetable and flower garden in my backyard. I planted tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and fennel, most of which, despite a summer of almost no rain, grew into healthy plants. I hovered over them like a new parent, moving them around to get the right amount of sun or shade. Some, like delicate herbs did not survive the harsh heat but the star of the garden turned out to be two innocuous looking amaranth plants a farmer at the weekend market persuaded me to buy. The drought resistant amaranth grains have been cultivated for millennia by the Aztec and certain parts of Asia and I have often bought the red tinged amaranth greens at Indian or Asian markets. The little plants blossomed quickly into tall gangly stalks, spread their seeds and I now have a mini amaranth farm in my backyard, bursting with bright green leaves, just waiting to be picked. Knowing the power of eating greens, daily, I look for ways to add it to my meals from stirring it into a curry, dal, salad, or a pilaf.
So, here is an amaranth pilaf made with another interesting high fiber grain, millet. Millet is very commonly eaten in India, whole in pilafs and stews or ground into rotis. A few weeks ago, I discovered a special variety called ‘Kodri’, very popular in Gujarat, the state in India where I grew up. It cooks fast, is easy to digest, high in protein and rich in phytochemicals. The Indians believe it helps control blood sugar and other related conditions. But the real reason to eat it is that it is so delicious, it may be good enough to replace white rice!
September 11, 2023
There are few fruits quite as glorious as a ripe black mission fig. Historians believe that figs are as old as humankind and the drought resistant fig tree is one of the first plants to be cultivated during ancient times. While one can prepare jams and chutneys from fresh figs, this often does injustice to their ripe beauty. The best way to enjoy a fig is as a dessert, simply sliced and drizzled with honey or chocolate or as an appetizer with minimal seasoning. Here are figs dipped in melted butter and rolled in sesame seeds and nuts. The butter can be seasoned with salt, red chile or finely minced herbs of your choice. This recipe may be simple but biting into this luscious buttery sesame crusted fig is a luxurious experience. Just eat it as it or place it on warm toast or over marinated greens.
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