Sitting in a nondescript back corner of the Urban Harvest farmers market every Saturday morning in Houston is a disparate farmer collective named Houston Regional Growers. They are mostly home gardeners with small quantities but who sell some of the most beautiful hand-grown produce you will find in town.
For years, I walked past these farmers, but during the initial part of the pandemic when my restaurant’s quantities tanked, I began to supplement vegetables from some of them.
It was Armando Bustamante, whose kale helped boost our saag, who sold the most flavorful amaranth leaves and persuaded me to cook with hoja santa leaves. He was a Whole Foods Market produce buyer in his previous life and now enjoys the simple pleasures of home gardening in the Heights. Next to Armando is Eli, who grows peppers, eggplants and unusual greens native to his home country, Congo. On the other side is Chris, who sells citrus varieties native to China. John in the corner is usually seated with a book and has leeks and beautiful tiny Brussels sprouts. I picked up this beautiful little romanesco on Eli’s table, but feel free to substitute with broccoli or cauliflower.
Supporting local farmers is not only important to our economy, it’s just as vital to our health. For the next few weeks, brassicas including cabbages, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower with high doses of vitamins A and C, carotenoids and antioxidants will fill the market stands. If you want to get in on them, take my advice and get there early.
serves 4
ingredients
1 1/2 pound romanesco or cauliflower
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon dried ginger powder
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds
Few tablespoons of pomegranate reduction
Few tablespoons of cumin yogurt
Pomegranate Reduction
2 cups pomegranate juice
Stick of cinnamon
Pinch of sea salt
Cumin Yogurt
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, toasted
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
instructions
Pre-heat oven to 450°F. Cut the romanesco in half lengthwise. Rub salt, pepper, ginger, and olive oil on all sides and place both halves cut-side down on a greased baking pan. Roast for 20 minutes then lower the temperature to 300°F and cook for another hour. The florets should be tender and cut through with a fork. If not, cook it for longer. Serve drizzled with cumin yogurt, pomegranate reduction, pomegranate seeds ,and a bit more olive oil if preferred.
To make pomegranate reduction: Place all ingredients in a pot and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes until the mixture is reduced by more than half. Remove the cinnamon and set aside.
To make cumin yogurt: Combine all ingredients.
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